Sligo’s Distilling History
From single malts to secret spirits, Sligo has an intriguing distilling past
Here at the Lough Gill Distillery, we’re embarking on our distilling journey in Sligo, but all around us is inspiration and past influence of the area’s rich history.
We’re now the custodians of the Lough Gill Distillery, finely crafting our single malt Irish whiskey to the backdrop of Sligo’s rugged scenery, crystal waters, and bewitching landmarks, but these isles and foothills have seen many a distilling tale. While Athrú marks the beginning of a new Irish whiskey journey in the County, we join a long and illustrious path of distilling predecessors, dating back centuries.
In the 19th century, the area was renowned for its high-quality drinks produce, both in the forms of whiskey and beer, and it boasted several breweries and distilleries. It was home to Abraham Martin’s Sligo Distillery, also known as Martin’s Distillery, which became infamous when on a visit to Ireland, King George IV on a visit to Ireland, sampled Martin’s Irish Whiskey. The distillery ceased trading in 1845, but the tale of distilling in Sligo was far from over.
Long before (and for quite a while after), this region was also rife with poitín distillation. The often illicit elixir, also dubbed ‘Irish Moonshine’ was a popular alternative to whiskey for many centuries, and you don’t have to go far in Sligo to find someone who knows someone...who knows someone with insider information on the distilling secrets this county holds.
Now, County Sligo is an area once again known for its cultural heritage, wild waters and literary legends, but its distilling history is one of legend and intrigue. We’re proud to call the Lough Gill Distillery home, and continue the legacy of Sligo’s distilling origins. Read on to discover more about the distilling secrets that make our hometown so special.
Poitín in Sligo
Poitín, (also known as Irish Moonshine) is an ancient Irish spirit, steeped in local legend. It’s made of strong stuff, typically coming in at an ABV of anything from 40% to a staggering 90%, and is a clear, non-aged spirit. It has a long and somewhat complex history, but it’s a huge part of the Irish distilling origins.
So let’s take a trip down memory lane (well, a very long trip), back to the 6th century, when poitín was first introduced by monks in Ireland who are reported to have begun distilling in settlements as early as 584 AD. There are even tales of St. Patrick brewing the spirit first, whilst leading mass. During this period, Irish monks were master distillers, with a knowledge for the craft not seen outside of the monasteries. They became known for their skills, and royalty from across Europe would write to these monks, asking them to produce poitín for them.
Taking its name from the Irish word for ‘little pot’, pota, the spirit originated on farms and is made from fermenting crops such as potatoes, grain and cereals in a single pot still, usually a homemade copper pot still, although in the very early days these would likely have been made from tin. This still is heated over an open turf fire, (or nowadays, a gas flame is more common) and a paste, made from cornflour and oatmeal is applied to the still joints as a sealant, with the intention of preventing alcohol loss. To find the cut points, the distiller throws some of the liquid onto the still to see if it catches fire - if it ignites, it means the run is still ongoing.
Poitín was being produced all across the land for many hundreds of years without any real issue - until 1556 when an act was passed by the English Parliament with the intention of making it illegal for anyone to distil spirits without a license from the Lord Deputy. However, this had little effect in Ireland, and a later attempt to curb distilling was made in 1661 when King Charles II introduced the first excise tax on alcohol and outlawed private distillation.
However, it was the Pot Still Act of 1771 which had a profound effect on distilling in Ireland. Supposedly introduced to prevent the wastage of corn, this act was believed by many to be a thinly veiled attempt to put paid to personal distillation. This act, unfortunately, had devastating repercussions for legitimate whiskey distillers in Ireland because this war on taxes affected them too, and many were forced out of business. At the time when the act was introduced, there were 1,228 registered distilleries in Ireland. By 1790, this number had fallen to 246, and by 1821, there were just 32 licensed distilleries in operation.
Poitín and Parliament Whiskey
Whiskey production suffered hugely at the expense of these laws, especially after 1779 when further laws were introduced; private distillation was outlawed and spirit distillers now had to obtain a license.
Due to the additional taxes and restrictions, whiskey distilled at this time became known as ‘Parliament Whiskey’, in reference to all of its governmental controls. One such distillery producing whiskey at this time was the Sligo Distillery owned by Abraham Martin, where the taxes were paid in accordance with the law, and whiskey could legally be made and sold.
Parliament Whiskey wasn’t for everyone - in many cases, the spirit suffered in quality - it was produced quickly to meet demand, and costs were high, which drove consumers away from legally made spirits and to something a little more illicit.
As whiskey interest waned, poitín distillation continued illicitly and demand increased, thus beginning the period of time known as the ‘golden age of Poitin’.
Secret Distilling
If this was the golden age of poitin, then Sligo was the golden location. After the introduction of the Pot Still Act, illicit distillation grew, especially in locations where policing such operations was difficult. Distillers began emigrating to remote areas where they could continue their practice away from the eyes of the law.
One of the most prominent areas in Ireland for illicit poitin distillation became Inishmurray Island, located 7KM off the coast of County Sligo. Due to its lack of accessibility and difficult landing conditions, the island was hard to police, and therefore became the hub of illegal distilling.
In order to go undetected, poitin makers would distill on windy days so as not to arise suspicion with the smoke from heating the still. The communities would be on the look-out too. They were invested in protecting the production of poitin - it created an income for people and paid rents to landlords, so it was in a lot of people’s interests to support the ongoing illicit distillation.
New legislation brought about in 1823 made legal distilling much easier, and as a result a lot of distillers decided to leave behind their poitin days, switching to the legal production of whiskey. On Inishmurray however, poitin distillation had become a way of life, and while the rest of Ireland began to focus on whiskey, the island didn’t follow suit. Even a police station introduced in the 1850s on Inishmurray didn’t act as much of a deterrent - at first the population of the island declined, but eventually the police were subjected to a boycott and the station was closed down. In the 1890s, with the police presence gone, poitin production was resumed, using treacle, brown and white sugar and barley as the principle raw materials.
The distillers were nothing if not determined to continue - in 1924 what is thought to be the largest quantity of illegal spirits ever captured in Sligo was discovered when police made a lightning raid on the island and discovered what they referred to as “a small distillery”. A working still was found, along with eight kegs of poitin, over a thousand gallons of wash, three stills, several barrels of treacle and a quantity of dry grain.
It wasn’t until World War II that the illegal poitin trade ceased on Inishmurray, and this was only due to rationing which affected sugar supplies. The island was eventually abandoned in 1948.
The Lough Gill Connection
According to this Irish Times article, there is a direct connection between the poitin trade on Inishmurray and our own Hazelwood House, which provides the backdrop to the Lough Gill Distillery. In 1801, when the island population had dwindled to just one family, they begged Owen Wynne, of Hazelwood, to help populate the island. He came up with the idea to swap land on the mainland for a landholding on the island thereby moving the tenants to the island. One of the tenants complained he’d never find a wife on the island if they moved, to which Wynne responded that he would provide his cook, Margaret McNulty as a wife. Problem solved. Families moved to Innismurray and a poitín tradition was allegedly born...
Poitin’s revival
After hundreds of years of illegal production, in 1987 Oliver Dillon, from Bunratty Winery was allowed to produce poitín for export purposes only. This movement led to legal production for export finally being allowed two years later. In 1997, the Irish Revenue Commissioners allowed the drink to be sold for consumption within Ireland.
Poitín is now one of the small number of Irish food and drink products that have been granted Geographical Indicative Status by the EU, meaning that in the same way that Champagne has to come from a certain area of France and Parmesan cheese can only come from a particular part of Italy, poitín can only come from Ireland.
The liquid has also made a comeback in recent years, with whiskey distilleries in Ireland expanding their offerings and producing poitín legally. These spirits are then sold on to bars, restaurants and can even be found in supermarkets. The on-trade demand for poitín has seen a rise too - there’s even a cocktail bar in Dublin dedicated to the revival of Ireland’s native spirit. Behind closed doors, home poitín distilling is still known to be popular too - this age-old tradition is one that will seemingly continue its legacy in Ireland.
Hazelwood Estate
The very foundations on which our distillery is built has some connections to poitín too. During its ownership under the Wynne family, Hazelwood Estate saw many casks of wine imported - records trace these back as far as the 1700s. The Wynne family were notable political and economic figures, and their estate was used to host many events, parties and sporting games and tournaments. It’s believed the casks which had been formerly used for wines were later reused to store poitín, made on the farm at Hazelwood imparting a distinctive finish on the spirit.
Lough Gill Distillery and the future of distilling in Sligo
We feel very fortunate to be creating Athrú single malt in an area with such a diverse and fascinating history of distilling. The word Athrú means to change or transform, and that’s what we strive to do with the distilling legend that began many hundreds of years before us. By bringing a modern approach to distilling whilst following traditional methods, we believe there’s a drop of the past, the present and the future in our whiskey.